Method for laying out garments and ruler therefor



I. STARER. METHOD FOR LAYING OUT GARMENTS AND RULER THEREFOR PatentedNov. 30, 1920.

APPLICATION FILED MR. 17. |917.

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METHOD FOR LAYING OU'l'.'` GARMENTS AND RULER 'IHEREFOR.`

Specification ofLetters Patent.

Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

Application led March 17, 1917. Serial `No. 155,615.

T 0 all tolto-m t may concern Be it known that I, IsAAo STARER, of thecity of New York, borough of Manhattan, in the countyof New York andStateof New York, have` inventeda new and Improved Method for Laying OutGarments and Ruler T herefor, of. which the following is a full, clear,and exact description. Y

My invention relates to an improvement in devices for designing andlaying out garments and patterns therefor.

In designing or laying out a pattern for a given garment of a givensize, certain essential` points have to be determined and certain linesdrawn, (such as the waist line, back neck line, etc.,) which varyaccording to the kind and size of garment to be laid out. These pointsare known to all skilled designers and the exact lengths of these linesfor a given size of garment have become definitely determined througheXperience,`some of them being known directly, others depending fortheir value upon certain numerical computations to be made by thedesigne-r.

In the course of my experience in cutting garments, I have discoveredthat certain measurements are fixed for various `sizes and do not changewith the change in style. Such measurements are the neck width andheight both in front and back, arm hole width, front and back shoulderheights (measured bottom of arm hole), scye depth and depth of arm hole.I have also found that the front neck width for every size equals thearm hole width.

All other points vary with the change in style and the designer should,therefore, be left free to vary them `without in any way interferingwith the other measurements, as cross back and chest.

Moreover, hitherto, in previous systems,

horizontal measurements were taken from a vertical base line." In mysystem, measurements are taken from back center line. This makes itpossible for the designerto embody in my system any desiredstyle andmeasurement, as tight fit, semi and loose fit.

Furthermore, according to my method, the various parts of the design maybe obtained .independently by simple constructions, so

that if an error should creep into the layout of one of the parts, thiserror will not be `carried over into the other parts. Thus, the frontand back, for instance, may be laid out independently. This is a greatadvantage as very often it is desired to vary the style in one withoutchanging the other.

The improved process also provides means whereby the most importantmeasurements may be readily checked.

To carry out the process, I provide an im proved form of ruler havingscales so dis posed that substantially none of the 4space on the ruleris wasted and the maximum measurements obtained on one edge of theruler. This makes it possible to use a single length ruler which may bereadily carried about the person of the designer instead of the large,clumsy designers squares such as hitherto used.

Referring to the drawings,

Figure 1 is a plan view of one side of my ruler,

Fig. Z is a plan view of the other side of the ruler,

i Fig. 3 is a view of a chart showing the manner of laying out a patternfor a ladys jacket, and shows the general method of the use of theruler.

My improved ruler has scales for design ing ladies jackets and mens andchildrens coats as well as other garments such as ladies7 skirts andmens trousers. i

The ruler as herein shown has uponone side thereof on the lower edge,Fig. l, scales A, B and C, subdivided for all sizesof garments from lllto 4S. Scale A is designed to be used for the depth of the arm hole;scale B for the scye depth and scale C for the bust line, all of themfor ladies? garments.

On` the same edge and side of the ruler will alsoy be found scales 1,2and 3, respectively, subdivided foreach size and which scales are usedfor laying out the following measurements. i

Scale l for the front neck and arm hole width; scale 2 for the crossback and cross chest, and scale 3 for the back neck. There is alsoscaley number 9 for ladies nine gore skirts.

`On the same side of the ruler, but on the opposite edge are scale 6 andscale 7. Scale 6 is subdivided for the different sizes for the purposeof measurement of hips for skirts,

--and scale 7 is subdivided for the different Von each scale.

Afloust line passes.

B and@ arelaid off as aforement-ioned, the

sizes for the purpose of measuring sleeves and shoulder heights.

The stars SS 4along the ruller indicate the division lines between eachscale.

Fig. 2 shows the other side of the ruler. On one edge are scales D, Eand F, applicable to mens garments. Scale D is for the depth of armhole; scale E for the sc ve depth, and scale F is for the bust line,each scale being subdivided for different sizes. The same edge also hasscale number 4, subdivided in sizes for measurement of trousers. Scalenumber 5 is applicable for the waist measure of ladies skirts, andsubdivided in various sizes.v On the opposite edge of the same side ofthe ruler are scales Gr, H and I. Scales G, II and I are for themeasurement ofy childrens garments; G being for depth of arm hole; H forthe scye depth, and I for the bust line.

On the same edge are also scales 11, 13, 15, I7, 19 and 2l for themeasurement of corresponding number gores of ladies skirts.

The use and application of the ruler and its various scales will becomeevident from the following example. Suppose it be required to make apattern for a ladies jacket, size 36. For this purpose, weV use scalesA, B and C, and scales 1, 2, 3 and 7. Re ferring to Fig. 3, the ruler isplaced vertically on the cloth or sheet of paper from which the patternis to be made, near or along the right edge thereof, and a line is drawnalong the edge of the `ruler of an 'f the garment of size 36, mark ofi"on the line 'from the rule in each of the three section scales A, B andC, the'desired size, 36, from each scale. Ifsize et() should be desired,mark olf from the scale on the line at ll() The lines drawn from thepoints A, B and C are the fundamental lines on which the garment isbuilt. rlhe distance A to C is called the arm-hole depth and is theequivalent of a line taken from the middle portion at the back of theneck over the shoulder to the front lower depth of the arm-hole. l.

AThe point A marked off as above is the center of the neck while thepoint B marks the point of the scye. That is the point from whichthe'scyedepthis measured, while the point C marks the point throughwhich the I have so graduated the scales A, B and C that when the pointsA distances between the corresponding size lgra-duations will give acertain required fundamental measurement. Thus, the distance from A toB, that is between Jthe 36 marks on scale B to C will always bethe scyedepth corresponding to the garment of size 36, while the distance from Ato C, that is from the center of the neck down to the bust line isaccuratelT the depth of the arm hole. The latter fact is empirical, thatis to say, I have found that measuringfrom the center of the neck down'to the bust line gives accuratel7 the required arm hole depth. Erectperpendiculars at the points B and (l of any convenient length.

New place the ruler so that the end Q ol' side shown on Fig. 1 is atpoint B of lf`ig. 3, and measure oit from B to the second star X2,getting point 1. Now use scale 3, making end P coincide with B, andstarting at point B, measure on the perpendicular at B to the requiredsize on scale 3, obtaining point 2. Now connect the points 1 and 2 by aline which gives the back neck.

From point 1 on Fig. 3, measure down on line A-B`C a suitable distance,sav fifteen inches, to obtain the waist line D. rl`his distance may varyaccording to the st'vle. and according to the individual, whether she islong or short waisted.

`Erect a perpendicular at point D and measure off on this line frompoint D onehalf inch, getting point Z. Connect points Z and 1 by astraight line. The intersection of this line Z-l with the perpendicularat C, gives the point Y on Fig. 3.

IVe will assume that the cross back in the garment is 13:1A inches. Onthe perpendicular C-Y, measure off from Y on scale number 2 beginning atend Q, of the ruler on side shown in Fig. 1, 13:)Y units (the scale isin half inches), and thus get point l#` (F Y represents the cross back).Measure the distance FQY and lav it ofi? from B on the perpendicularerected at point B, thus getting point G. Connect points G and F.' Online F-G, beginning` with F, measure up on the ruler, using scale A fromits end Q to the first star X and thus get point 6.

Now use scale 7, placing` the upper edge, Fig. 1, ofthe ruler along theline F G, with end P at point 6, and measure oft on said scale to therquired size 36 on division 71 of said scale 7, and get point (Pointlmarks the back shoulder height). Connect points 2 and 4 by a line andmeasure six inches on it from 2 getting point 13. (Line 2 to 13 is thelength of the shoulder).

On the line l-G, measure ofil from F two and one-quarter inches to theleft of I" and get point 5. Draw a perpendicular to line C F (continued)at point 5 downward in the direction of line C-D lVleasure down 0n thisperpendicular from point 5, seven Yand one-quarter inches and point Il.

ond star X2 on scale A, and get point 7. `Now connectpoints 7 and 5 by astraight line.

On the line C--F beginning at point F, measure from end Q of the ruler,scale 1 to the required size (36) and get point 8. The distance betweenpoints F and 8 represents the arm hole width. i

Nowplace the ruler so that scale number 2 lies with end Q at point 8 andmeasure on line 8-Y, the required size (to division mark 16gon scalenumber 2), on said scale, and get point I. Now measure the distance fromI to C, and measure off the same distance from B on the perpendicular atB, and get point L, Fig. 3. l

Now using scale A, place the ruler with end Q at point L and measurealong L-B from L to the first starXl, thus getting point M, and holdingthe ruler in the same position, measure off to thethird star X3, andmark it point N, and connect points N and I.

Now place the ruler so that the edge runs through the points M and I,and beginning with point I, draw a linedownward rornI. Using scalenumber 1, place the ruler with its end Q at point M, and measure M alongIVI-B to the required size (36) on scale number 1, and get point O.Erect a perpendicular to M--B at point C, and measure off on thisperpendicular Jfrom end Q of the ruler to the fourth star X4 on scale A,getting point T. Measurethe distance from Y to Z and lay ofi. thisVdistance plus one and one-quarter inches from I in the direction of thestraight line through MI getting point R,

-thus obtaining front length of waist. Measure the distance from I to 8,andlay off thesame distance along B`-N frompoint N,

`and get point 10. Connect points S and 10.

lDraw a line of any convenient length through points T and 10. On thisline P-10, measure down from point T a distance of eight inches for size36, and get point 21.

Cn line H--D measure oil from point H to the right of the same distanceas from `Z aiidI) and getpoint 7 and then measure off along .II-Dthissaine distance `from II to the right of II and `get point 18.`Connect points 5 and 18 and 5 and 7 by straight lines as shown in Fig.3. l

Using scale 7, place the ruler along line 2 4` with its end P at point 2and measure off on scale 7 to the required size36 in division a, of thisscale and get point 15. Measure the distance 2-15 and lay this of fromD-Z Valong Z-II and get point K. Connect I-v15. Bydrawing from K-15, theintersections of line K-l with the Y--I line, gives point 24.

Prolong Y--`Z, six inches below Z, and get point E, and erect aperpendicular to the line at point of the same length as the line I)K,`thus getting oint 23.

Measure the distance Jfrom to 6 and lay 23 to 28, getting point 26.

it off along line 2-13 from point 15` and get point 14;. Connect 14 to24 by a straight line. Measure the distance from 7 to II and lay it oftalong D-K from K, getting point J. .lonnect points 24 and J by astraight line. i

' A y Measure from R along It--II the same dis- 22 getting point 30.From 19 lay off on line lit-II one and one-quarter inches. i This givespoint 20. Connect points 30 and 20.

` From 23 along the line 23--E measure one inch getting point 28.Connect J-28 which should be six inches long. From II measure down sixinches along line 5-I-I prolonged and get point25. Connect 7 25.

vProlong line I-R and measure frein R six` inches down along I-R and getpoint 29. At this point 29 erect a perpendicular Ato R429 and lay ofi onit to the right from 29 a distance equal to the distance Jfrom E to 23,obtaining point 36. Connect points 19 and 36 by a straight line. i Thisline 19-36 should be six inches long. From point 3G along theperpendicular 19-3G measure ofi a length equalto the distance betweenthe `points `19 and 20. This" determines point 27 Join points 20 and 27by the straight line E20-27, which should also be six inches long andwhichis in the prolongation of the line 304-20. At point 27 erect aperpendicu Alar to line 27-20 This perpendicular cuts the line 7-25 alittle above25. From the intersection of this perpendicular with 7-*25measure oil' to the right along this perpendiculara length equal to thedistance from Measure from I two and one-half inches, `(or a distance tosuit along line C-I to the left of I, thus getting point 34C).`lVIeasure also two andone-half inches from point R along line -II--Rprolonged getting point 33. Draw ahstraight line through points 34 and33. The `intersection of this line 311-33 with the perpendicular 29-36prolonged gives point35. y

i Shape the back neck, arm hole and front neck as shown in Fig. 3. i i

Shape `all curves as shown in Fig. 3..

"When the layout is complete, the depth of arm hole may be checked bymeasuring the distancebetween points 'l andS and adding to it the lengthof line 1-2 the back neck line. The sum thus found should equal thelength A-Ofdetermined. by the ruler atthe beginning of the layout. The,front shoulder height 8-10fmay be checked by laying oli?y pointy 9 onvline 10-8 extending downward whichl is three-quarter inch down frompoint 8 on scale number 7. Division C and point 10 should correspond tothe size indicated, as for instance size 3G, in the present case.

Various modifications may be resorted to without departingl from thespirit of the in- Vention andtherscopethereof as set forth in thefollowing claims:

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire tosecureby Letters Patent l. The methodof laying out a garment consistingin drawing a vertical base line and a horizontal base line, laying offon the vertical. base line standard points for the neck depth: and bustlline, laying out on the horizontal: base line a standard point for theback neck width, drawing the back center line at an angle to theVertical base line from the back neck depth point, then measuring uponthe bust line from the back center line a length corresponding to thecross back length oi the individual person, measuring from the point sofound a standard width corresponding tothe arm hole width, and thenobtaining other points by measurement and making the front neck widthequal to the arm hole width.

2. The method of laying out a garment consisting in drawing Vertical andhorizontal base lines, measuring the standard lengths of the back-neckwidth, back neck depth and bust line on the two base lines, drawing theback center line atan angle to the vertical base line from -the backneck Y depth point, measuring the cross back and arm hole width upon thebust line from the back center line, measuring the bust upon the bustline, laying out the arm hole block lines parallel to the center backline, laying out the front center line parallel to the arm hole blocklines, laying oif on the upper horizontal base -line from the frontcenter line, front neck widthy equal to the arm hole width, erecting aperpendicular from the inner front neck width point and laying 0E astandard length thereon equal to the front neck depth and drawing thefront shoulder line from the point so found through the intersection ofthe front arm hole block line and the upperba'se line.

3. The method of laying out a garment consisting in drawing vertical andhorizontal base lines,`measuring on the vertical base lineextendedupwardly a point Jfor indicating arm hole depth, a backneckdepth point, a bust line point and also awaist line pointcorresponding to the size and style, then measuring back neck .width onthe horizontal base line, drawing the. back center line at an angle tothe vertical base line, laying off on the upper horizontal base linefrom the front center line, front neck width equal to the arm holewidth, erecting a perpendicular from the inner front neck width pointand layingoit a standard length thereon equal to the front neck depthand drawing the front shoulder line from the point so found through theintersection of the front arm hole block line and the upper base line,then checking the arm hole depth appearing on the layout from the armhole depth indicated on thek vertical base line.

4. The method of laying out a garment consisting in drawing vertical andhorizontal base lines, measuring the standard lengths of the back neckwidth, back neck depth and bust line point on the two base `linesdrawing the back renter line at an angle to the vertical base line fromthe back neck depth point, measuring the cross back and arm hole widthupon the bust line from the back center line, measuring the bust uponthe bust line, laying out the arm hole block lines parallel to thecenter back line, laying out the front center line parallel to the armhole block lines, measuring a standard distance upon the horizontal baseline with respect to the front center line to thus .determine a standardpoint and drawing a continuation of the front center line from itsintersection with the bust line, this continuation being determined fromthe said point of intersection and said standard point with reference tothe front center line, laying oil on the arm hole depth and bust line astandard distance to the left of the right arm hole block` line, drawinga line from this point downward parallel to the back center line toobtain the back and front junction line, drawing a waist lineperpendicular to the vertical base line up to the back and frontjunction line, laying off the distance of the arm hole line from theback waist line upon the front center line, measuring downwardly fromthe intersection with the bust line and adding to this length a standardamount, connecting the point so found with the intersection of the waistline and the back and front junction line to obtain the front waistline, laying olf on the waist line from the intersection of the back andfront junction line and the waist line standard distances and laying oifrom the points so found angular lines and measuring on said angularlines equal distances to determine the bottom line of the garment andmeasuring distances downward from the front waist line to correspondwith the bottom line so found.

5. A ruler for laying out garments having scales for indicating thepoint for the horizontal base line, scye depth and bust line, and ascale on a. line with the first mentioned scales whereby the arm holedepth may be CII llO

directly indicated While laying out the first two points, such arm holedepth being a check upon the arm hole depth as found in the course oflaying out the garment.

6. A ruler for laying out garments havin in combination With the scyedepth, bust an back neck Width scales' one standard point disposed at afixed distance from the end of the ruler for yindicatirtgg; the backneck depth constituting an average depth which may be 10 used for allsizes.

Sivned at New York city, in the county of NewbYork and State of NewYork, this 27 th day of February, 1917.

ISAAC STARER. Witnesses:

M. S. MILLER, D. B. KLEIN.

